This morning in Clarksville, we awoke to 81 degrees, and somewhat overcast skies. Looking to the South, you could see rain passing through the mountains off in the distance. The hill behind the Quality Inn blocks our view to the North. We have to backtrack about 22 miles on Rte 21, and pick up the "trail" where we left off.
We pulled out about 8AM, and had a couple quick stops to make before all meeting at the trail.
Rich (Columbus the explorer) had seen some sights downtown on Main st., he wanted to share, so I followed him down there.First was a business that looked like the side show to a circus. When he came by there after dark last night on his way back from dinner at the sportsman's club, he said people were lined up to get in.Rich said it was really busy.
Expected to see the Fat Lady or Ripley's Believe it or Not
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| He missed his "Calling" |
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| How can you pass up an old drug store named Teeters? |
The local jeweler Phil has an historic clock out front.
Next stop was an old independent motorcycle repair shop. In the front window was an original Honda CL175
We met at the "trail " head, and started westerly, back into the Ozark National Forest.
The dirt, gravel roads were quite dusty, and we strung out fairly quickly. It wasn't a half hour into the ride, and I came around a corner, and saw an old store. I immediately recognized this from seeing pictures of it, and reading about it in other TAT riders ride reports. It was a must see place for me, so I stopped. I told Rich and Jon they could continue if they wanted to, but neither wanted to miss the old store.
Inside was truly a step back in time. The interior was pretty much 1890's style. The walls were decorated with wonderful, original antiques, old pictures, and memorabilia.
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| Just one of the "Folk Art" Roosters 3 feet tall |
We had some coffee and water, and talked to the ladies running the place. Both lived there in the "mountains", and had been working there for years. The former owner walked in, and greeted us. Mr. James Mitchell had recently retired, and operations were now in the hands of his son James II and his wife Carla.
Mr. Mitchell said the TAT riders were his most regular (except locals of course) customers. He produced a TAT guest book, which we of course signed. He said the riders even come through there in winter.
Over by the register were some pictures hanging. One showed three TAT riders on their bikes, in front of the store. SNOW on the ground. Hard for us to imagine, as it was almost 90 degrees already, and only 10AM.
Mr. Mitchell also explained he and his son had spent almost three years building a traditional log cabin on a hundred acre piece of land he owns, about 6 miles "up the mountain". The cabin has all hand hued logs, and is equipped with all modern conveniences, including a microwave. A loft sleeping area, and a couple bedrooms, plus a fold out twin couch, provide sleeping for several. He says he rents it out to TAT riders. They stop in at the store for a meal, learn about the cabin, spent the night, then come back to the store for a hearty breakfast, then hit the trail again. It gets $95.00/night for the cabin, and it even has a bike washing pad. His plans are to build two more cabins to accommodate the TAT riders and hunters in the area. Wish we had had time to go up and see it, but we didn't. Had to keep moving.
After leaving the store we continued on what proved to be a delightful narrow, smooth paved road that twisted all over the place as it snaked up the valley floor. Eventually we made a right hand turn onto a two track road that started to climb the mountain. Within a quarter mile it was "peg-time", as we rode 1st and 2nd gear, pulling an uphill grade around sharp turns as we went higher and higher. To call this road a jeep trail would be accurate. Very little else but Jeeps, four wheelers and dirt bikes could have made it. Once the steep climb was over, it leveled off somewhat, and the surface improved. We rode this section for a good hour, 2nd and 3rd gear, averaging about 20mph. We came over a small knoll, and saw a motorcycle stopped ahead. As we got closer, we could see it was Brooks. We soon learned he had been riding along and all of a sudden his rear tire went soft. Inspection revealed a small 2" long, rusty common nail buried into the casing. He had already pulled the wheel off, replaced the inner tube, and remounted it before we arrived. All that was left was to pack up the tools, and remount the bags and luggage. Practice at home changing tires had made the job on the trail quite easy. Of course it doesn't hurt to have all the proper tools along, including a small electric air pump.
So we're off again. Another half hour of nice smooth 2 track road, and we start down grade.
What was unusual was the roadway was littered with rocks that had been deposited there from recent rains and obvious flash flooding. These rocks were small at first, maybe 6 to 8" in diameter, but as the grade downward increased, it was apparent so did the force of the rushing water. There were stones as big as 30 to 50 lbs all over the place. This coupled with the ditches and paths the raging water had cut in the roadway made for some serious riding. No big adventure size bikes would enjoy this. We had arrived on the famed Warloop Road. We had read about this road in other riders reports. The road was getting worse and worse. My biggest fear was it would get so bad, we'd get to a spot that was impassable, and we'd have to return to the top and find an alternate route off the mountain. As usual, pictures make things look better than they are.
We finally came out at the bottom of the mountain, crossed a bridge that was littered everywhere with washed down debris, logs, stones etc., and like night and day, we were on a paved road, leading 3/10th of a mile to a main road. It was time for a break. We saw a small roadside stand that was open, and pulled right in. We were in a community named Mountainside, and we were at the Mountainside diner.
I had, of course, a Mountain burger. This consisted of ground beef, loose, not in a patty. On this the appropriate dressings were added....cost? $1.35...(we're in the mountains). We found two picnic tables out back in the shade, and spent a restful time there before heading on.
By mid-afternoon, we entered Oklahoma. Mostly all "backroads" of gravel and reddish sand. A sign at a driveway advertised "Red-Dirt Excavation Co" . Many horse farms, cattle ranches, and large, green hay fields. It was decided we'd head off the trail and down to Tahleqah, OK and find a room for the night. It didn't look like much would be available for at least another hundred miles, and that was not an option in near 100 degee heat. In Tahleqah (Capital of the Cherokee Nation), we found a beautiful Comfort Inn & Suites. (For only about $12.00/room more than CB's place in Beebe, AR, and the Quality Inn had everything. After showers, and cocktails, we walked over to Chili's for a nice dinner, and then settled in for the night.
Stats for the day: 165 30.6 avg speed , 9hr 06 min
